Fred – a true local food pioneer

By Fiona Richmond, Head of Regional Food, Scotland Food & Drink

When Fred asked me to write a few words for his newsletter (whatever I fancied) I thought, well, where to start?

I’ve been in the Fred fan club for years, admiring his unstinting, heartfelt commitment to supporting small suppliers, traditional products and food heritage – in a nutshell, the Slow Food way of doing things.

I always remember Fred saying that, at the beginning of his restaurant business in Scotland, he was sourcing much of his produce from his native France. Understandably, with his lifelong connection to a strong food culture and innate understanding of where food comes from, how it is produced and its importance to national identity, he may have justifiably wondered if he would be able to find local produce that would live up what he was used to at home.

But find such produce he did, by immersing himself in Scotland’s food scene, travelling to every nook and cranny of the country to seek out the small-scale growers, fishers, farmers, breeders, cheesemakers and bakers at the heart of this new food culture he found himself in. By making these connections, respecting and learning about their work, a whole array of special products found themselves on Fred’s menus, bringing them to a whole new audience in Edinburgh.

Think Barra snails; Orkney beef; North Ronaldsay mutton; Hebridean Lamb; seafood from the Isle of Skye and Orkney Seafood; artisan dairy produce, and his very own walled garden-grown organic veg and herbs. Nothing goes to waste in his kitchen, using his skills to embody, and pass on to his team, the philosophy of nose-to-tail cooking (I’ll never forget a fishing trip with Fred many years ago – catch, cook and eat it at its best – worth getting up at an ungodly hour and bracing the cold for!).

It’s Fred’s unwavering zeal for finding the best-quality products, championing the small producer and giving them that all-important route to market and visibility that has won Fred many accolades over the years, including our very own Scotland Food & Drink Excellence Awards ‘Food Pioneer’ category in 2016 and ‘Scottish Sourcing’ in 2017. A role model, and one of countless chefs and cooks who are putting local ingredients centre-stage on their menus and driving the country’s reputation as a Land of Food and Drink.

Our industry needs people like Fred. Chefs like him are a lifeline for suppliers, providing an outlet for the many special products that make up Scotland’s diverse regional larder. Not just serving them, but telling the story to customers, driving interest in local produce and preserving food heritage.

With the double whammy of the pandemic and Brexit, the relationship between those who supply and serve local produce is arguably more essential than ever, working together in mutual support.

We must always hope that good comes out of bad and, if that means a greater understanding and respect for the people who produce, serve and sell our country’s very special produce, then that is something to be thankful for.

Fred, we’re right behind you and send our thanks for being the pioneer and sourcing champion that you have always been. And if you’re looking for a chum on your next fishing adventure you know who to ask.

To find out more about what Scotland Food & Drink does to grow the industry, visit www.foodanddrink.scot

To get involved in the annual celebration of Scottish produce, 4th-19th September, visit www.fooddrinkfort.scot