Fred's Newsletter: 17.11.20
Last night's dinner, and this morning's breakfast.
Good morning,
I just had breakfast. I finished last night’s dinner with bread and butter and a cup of tea. You won’t believe it (but the ones that know me will) I scoffed a whole choux-farci from last week’s take-away menu. God it was tasty. I might have another one tonight.
Leftovers from dinner are my favourite breakfast, alone in the kitchen while everyone else is still asleep. It wouldn’t take much for me to open a bottle of wine to go along with it, but I am not on holiday and I have to go to work shortly.
I spent Sunday at Newton Garden and picked my first Brussel sprout. A proud moment. We also got the apple vinegar on the go. I’ve written about this before, it’s easy and something I recommend you try yourself.
I am very moody these days. We are 8 months into that “chou-baby-silly-scary” time. Did you see that restaurants in France are not allowed to open until January? I can’t ignore this in my writing to you, so here are a few facts.
l’escargot blanc closed on the 16th of March and has not re-opened at all. Most probably it won’t open again. But even closed, we still need to pay the running costs, including the rent. At bleu we have been offering a take-away since the 18th of May.
So in the 8 months since March we have traded for a total of 14 weeks, including 8 weeks as a restaurant, running at less than half-speed (30 seats instead of 60) and more-or-less closed since the 6th of October. The result? We have achieved 14% of our usual annual turnover so far this financial year.
In simple terms this explains my mood, not that I am asking for sympathy. I am lucky to be able to keep my head above water and not be traumatised by money. But with very little help and direction it has been disorientating. Betty and I are self-employed. There is no income for us, or any furlough grant. This said, we do feel privileged to be able to eat well and are spoiled with quality products to cook with. This in itself is a luxury. We are also so grateful to have a core of customers that continue to support us week after week. Where will we end up? I don’t know, so we will keep going.
This week I have asked Denise Walton of Peelham to share a few words on what she and her family do on their farm. I think she is sitting writing now, as I do the same. I often buy organic veal from them. In a previous life, I was buying a whole veal every 6 weeks. This week we have two dishes with veal: steak tartare using veal fillet this time; and blanquette de veau - veal shoulder cooked with crème fraîche and button mushrooms. It’s my ever-favourite dish and the one I would ask for if it was my last.
It’s starting to get very cold outside, even if there are no signs of frost yet, so I thought why not put some “cheeky cheesy” dishes on the menu. The chaps at Mons Cheese have promised us delivery of some especially tasty Vacherin Mont d’Or and Reblochon this week. So cheese-lovers, there are two dishes you can enjoy as a nibble, a late afternoon bite, or a main course. Or be like me and finish the dish at breakfast time!
L’apéro fredo this week comes with a sparking crémant from Schwach, the garlic snails are back on and white Armagnac smoked salmon makes an appearance. I asked Ketch, one of the Welch brothers, to smoke some for you to enjoy. I’m making chestnut flour blinis to eat with it. It’s nearly Christmas isn’t it?
The Russian salad, or salade Macédoine, uses root vegetables from Phantassie Organics in East Lothian and is served with a duck-egg mimosa. Simple and tasty.
Coq au vin rouge is also back using cockerels from Linda. This time cooked bone in, the classic way. We have lambs from Jane at The Brand Family in East Fortune, and I will make a Navarin casserole with tomato, rosemary, some spices from my special cupboard and a Merguez sausage. That might be another breakfast treat for me!
The red deer marinated in red wine over the weekend, and is slowly cooked overnight then finished with Armagnac prunes, fresh blueberries and a pheasant and chestnut sausage.
The fish this week is hake with a curried sweet pepper and tomato sauce with chick peas. The gratin Dauphinois cannot leave the menu, it’s too popular, but this week we’re also adding a spinach with gruyère cheese as a side. We also see the return of the green salad, mainly from Newton Garden but with a few things from Phantassie as supplies are running short.
Talking of cheese, this week’s selection focuses on goat’s cheese for a change. Served with tasty fig jam, trust me, all three are worth tasting. Numbers are limited so order today if you want to try them.
The desserts include crème caramel, blueberry, pear and almond clafoutis and my old favourite, the brioche and chocolat butter pudding.
Christmas is coming, so Betty and I, with the team, are working hard to get a shop ready with some Christmas treats. And I’d also like to confirm that we are aiming to maintain l’escargot at home over the festive period.
I am off to cook now, but once more I would like to thank everyone for ordering from us, and trusting us over the past weeks and months.
Please keep sending your feedback and pictures of your food. It’s so heartening to hear from you.
À bientôt,
Fred and family.