Fred's newsletter 1.6.21

Good morning everyone,

In my short life of 35 years as a chef, I have come across many people in the trade who have really moved me with their sensitivity to the job they are doing; not just with their skills at butchering, filleting or cooking, but with their philosophy of showing an extremely attentive and caring approach, respecting the whole life of the animal with a soft and gentle touch.

Sometime in the late 90s or early 2000s, I was at the Castle Terrace farmers’ market, browsing the stalls with food for sale. I had no interest in the hot food to take away or the handmade soaps - I was hunting for properly-reared meat and vegetables.

In those days, a small group of producers were already at the market: Sasha from Grierson Organic, Peter and Elma Maclaren from Ballencrief rare breed pigs, Jim Craig from Clyde Valley’s famous tomatoes, and David Leslie selling vegetables, plus a few others.

It was the early days of buying meat and veg directly from producers; these guys didn’t deliver so we had to pre-order then collect from the Saturday market. At the time, restaurants were still buying mainly from wholesalers; the links and connections with small producers not quite established yet.

On making my way through the market, a stall attracted my attention. It said ‘veal’ on a blackboard right in front of me; ‘rosé veal’ to be precise. As a good Frenchman, on a mission to satisfy my taste buds, I wanted to see what was available. There was ribeye, sirloin, shoulder; the colour and the look of the meat really stood out - I had found something very interesting. I could tell it was good quality at first sight. So I began a conversation with the stall holder, Dominic. We chatted for a good few minutes. He had a smiley face, a face that was showing excitement. happiness and enthusiasm. He knew what he was selling and that it could be a bit of challenge to sell veal at a city centre food market. Eventually, after a long discussion, Dominic threw a pack of meat at me and said: “you French love that, try it and if you like it, come back for more”. It was a veal onglet steak. And it is true that the French love that steak, a hanger steak in English, the only red meat that is part of the offal. I took it home and fell in love with Dominic via eating his veal.

Dominic came to Scotland when his parents bought Sunnyside Farm. He became a farmer by accident I believe, and God he was doing it very well. There were no challenges that he wouldn’t take on. A couple of Dexter cows to start, followed by rare breed pigs, sheep and more Dexters and plenty of pets! The herds were mainly pets actually. Dominic and his father David would name every animal. Piglets and lambs would be in the house when it was too cold outside. Dominic has written a piece for us that you can read here.

The work was intense. Doing markets was a serious task, needing many hours to organise and set up, including the butchering and packing of course. I mentioned above having met people that moved me with their sensitivity to the job, and Dominic was one of those rare people I have come across that could butcher an animal showing such respect. His hands just skimming the meat; so precise, sensual, and gentle. I wish every butcher could learn this skill. Respect is the word - after all they were pets.

Generosity was another element of the philosophy at Sunnyside, like in hospitality, generosity should be the norm in any food-related business. At Sunnyside it was more than that. We had many evenings and days out there with guests. During the Budding Chefs exchange, I took a bunch of French student chefs there. After a day’s work they were treated to Dexter beef fillets and many more cuts of pork and veal. Nothing but the best and the students were seriously happy, as was I. We made black pudding too. Real pudding using fresh blood to be sold at markets. Dominic I have tears in my eyes writing this. Can we do it again? I love you my friend.

I am seriously moved by watching someone show so much respect to the animal. It is increasingly rare in today’s world, but we must teach our youngsters this approach. Another great person touched me: the late Kenny Welch. Watching this highly talented and skilled fishmonger at work was entrancing. The level of respect he displayed was so high, I am finding it hard to word it properly. Thank you Kenny for passing on your skills to the next generation. Please visit Welch fishmongers if you can and pay attention to how the fish is looked after and prepped for you. Respecting our food is a must. And we must encourage the younger generations to understand this.

Now I’ll tell you about this week’s take-away menu. There’s a generous salade Niçoise to share, with new-season Jersey Royal potatoes, fresh tuna, tomatoes and green beans, and lettuces from Newton Garden. A very decent way to start a meal, or a meal on its own. The crab claws in garlic and parsley will be fresh and tasty as a nibble or a starter, and for the first time, we have quiche Lorraine with bacon and gruyère cheese. The countryside terrine of pork was cooked last Friday and will be matured enough by this Friday to be tasty - the Armagnac and white wine will have done their work. The snails this week will be served with a red wine Bordelaise sauce and croutons. As I am writing this, I still don’t know if we are getting Scottish asparagus! The weather has not improved up north, but I should know later today. If not, it will be British. So far they have been quite tasty, and getting slightly bigger every week.

For mains, we have a new dish made with suckling pig. I am a bit reluctant to use young animals but I have made an exception this week. It’s a long time since I ate suckling pig and I remember it as a tasty experience. It will be boned out completely and rolled with a mushroom duxelle stuffing. What is not to like?

The Aberdeen Angus feather blade will be in the oven overnight from this evening with a Scottish cider and beef stock. It should be ready by morning. A slow process that will help to keep the meat moist and tasty.

Talking of rosé veal, we have some this week from Peelham Farm. It will be cooked in the form of a caillette: minced and mixed with liver and some good seasoning, then rolled and cooked in veal stock. It will be served with haricot beans and spring cabbage.

The roe deer casserole will also be given a long, slow cook in red wine and a strong game stock, before getting a second cook just before we hand it over to you on Friday. That’s what we call a cooked marinade: marinated and cooked at the same time to intensify the flavours. I am aiming for plaice as the fish this week, served with Jersey Royals and a langoustine bisque.

We have a good selection of desserts including a duck egg and vanilla petit pot with little biscuits, the chocolate tarte (a must), a lemon tartelette, praline brioche and butter pudding, and of course, les fromages. There’s also a good selection of wine should you fancy it.

Newton Garden is in full swing as you will see in the pictures below. The garden is very generous at this time of the year with plenty available for harvesting. I am very grateful to Lady Mary for allowing me use and benefit from her walled garden for these 4 or 5 years.

I had to take Coco to the vet last Friday, he was in a fight, or was he attacked? I don’t know. He’s recovering very well and I’m sure he will be back to his old hunting habits again very soon. Have any of you experienced a bird of prey attacking a cat? I am almost convinced that the wounds to his forehead and below his ears are from a bird.

Remember the new deadline for ordering is now Wednesday 12 noon. And that l’escargot bleu is now open for dinner on Thursday and Friday evenings, and on Saturdays for lunch and dinner.

Thank you all for reading and ordering from us. And I really enjoy reading all the messages and emails you send, so keep them coming.

À bientôt,

Fred