Bonjour from Betty

I did not expect to be on camera when I got dressed on Sunday!!

Bonjour à tous,

On our way to the garden on Sunday morning, we received a phone call from the BBC asking if one of us would comment the on-going concern of serious staff shortages in the hospitality industry.

As I was wondering whether Fred would take the opportunity to talk on prime TV or go to the garden, he dropped me off at l'escargot bleu: I guess the prospect of being interviewed at the restaurant on a SUNNY Sunday morning wasn't that appealing to him.

So it was down to me - in my garden attire, looking tired after a week end of table service at the restaurant. "Not at my best!" as you say. I am not quite sure about other industries, but when I am asked if the shortage of candidates in hospitality comes mainly from the Covid situation, Brexit or a combination of both, I cannot ignore the fact that (in my opinion) the main impact to our restaurants comes from TV itself.

The cooking shows broadcast are mostly enjoyable, interesting and appealing, encouraging us to try a recipe or light up the barbecue. The competition shows are equally fun and highly entertaining for some. However, the various shows based on people arguing, breaking plates and slamming doors have done some real damage to the "profession" over the years.

I don’t believe that was the original intention, as I’m sure the main focus would have been on the viewing figures, but as the years went by, I cannot help but think that these shows bear a part of responsibility for the situation we see ourselves in now. That working in a restaurant is seen as a student/weekend job, and anyone can wait tables, do the housekeeping and call themselves a chef as long as they can master the use of a potato peeler.

A waiter is not a plate carrier and a chef is not a cook. No disrespect here, I am a cook myself and proud of it. But I can't peel vegetables or cook to Fred's standards. Does it make me a half decent cook?

With this in mind, I am going to tell you what hospitality is for me and I am quite certain that Fred will support this (he is gardening as I am writing). The only goal you must aim for is the desire to give and share. To do this well, all you need is generosity.

Let’s imagine that next Saturday you are expecting friends and family for a gathering in your garden, a theatre pre-drink in your kitchen or a full meal around the table in your dining room. You will anticipate: wine in the fridge, cut the grass, prepare a table cloth, put together a cheese board, make a marinade, maybe buy a few extra candles, pop an air freshener in the bathroom and hopefully stock up on well-sourced fresh ingredients. You may refresh your memory on the best way to keep your chicken moist, start freezing ice cubes, choose an outfit, tidy your hair and set the mood ready to please.

All of these preparations you make for your friends and family next Saturday, are made by Fred and I every day for the last 30 years - with the same attention-to-detail and anticipation. This is our job and we are happy with our lifestyle choice because we enjoy entertaining. It is that simple. Does it mean that we take our work home? Yes, we do. Whether we are at the restaurant or at home, cooking and serving and giving you the best we can takes most of our days and nights. Can it be stressful? Is it tiring? Do we miss out on social events with our friends and family? Do we miss vacations? Can it be frustrating? The answer is yes. Is it rewarding? Does it give us a feeling of satisfaction? Does it make us proud? Does it make us laugh? Do we feel needed and useful? Do we learn from it? Do we enjoy it? The answer is yes.

We have been fortunate enough (not sure it is luck at this stage) to work alongside great team members who share our philosophy. Too many to be named? Not at all, our team is made of Bertrand (a talented chef, tolerating Fred since 2000), Sebastien (the best trouble shooter, working with a smile since 2012), Sophie (customer-obsessed, bringing her own effortless elegance front-of-house since 2013), Gonzalo (too precious in the kitchen and as beautiful as his pastry since 2017), Matthiew (best all-rounder in the kitchen, restaurant and garden since 2018) and Anthony (genuine giver who earned his stripes at l'escargot blanc restaurant since 2018).

Fred is mostly referred to as papa among the staff (under my influence maybe). He is the head of the table, the one who brings food to the kitchen, decides what you eat and drink and how it is served. He's also the director of the music department, setting the morning mood, followed closely by Sebastien who has very specific tastes in music at 5pm! I am maman and will stand my ground on the choice of cutlery, bread, and the cheese-board we will use at this Saturday gathering. As you prepare to entertain your friends and family in your own house, the members of our small team are preparing to share l'escargot with you.

What is it that’s not to like about this career? What makes so many not value it as a profession? I am unsure. Maybe we are reminded too often that ‘work’ is a negative word when we talk about restaurants. Often, when I say that I work in a restaurant, I get a reaction like: "oh, poor you", "oh dear, that must be so difficult", and of course the usual "I couldn't do that!".

Well, actually you could if you enjoy hosting, having friends around your table, sharing with people and want to spread a bit of social happiness on a plate.

I will not describe the menu to you this morning, I will leave you to look on your own. But I will say that FINALLY the asparagus is Scottish. An achievement on its own!

Hope you have a great week (and speak to you soon when you call!),

Betty

Previous
Previous

La Cuisine Familiale

Next
Next

Fred's newsletter 1.6.21